I can't personally give you and estimate of power because I have the 16v, but you should quite easily be on or above bhp with all that and a good re-map!
Some helpful things would be to smooth your inlet ports slightly to give better air-flow which has varying bhp increases on different engines. Ensure that you don't smooth them off too much because you do need some turbulence.
I take it that you're getting a 0. As I remember, the cylinder sleeves and combustion chambers have sharp edges on them because Toyota didn't build the 20 valves with as much care as they did other engines. These edges can cause detonation so use some wet and dry paper to smooth them off, without going nuts of course. One of my friends has the lightened flywheel, as he gets through his gears much quicker, though its stand to reason u will lose Torque, he has the exhast cam to conpensate for it.
Yea im only looking for NA power, with regards to the gasket, yup its the 0. Monji I still want to run my setup with the std ecu, it should be able to still give me good mappings and accomadate the upgrades. Yeah will let you know how its going, I was thinking about a rebore maybe 20 thou What is ur Oil consumption like? I can't tell you what my Oil consumption is like because I only got my dad to drive it home so that I could do the engine overhaul.
Its now on the work bench and on my bed. Also I'm 15 so couldn't tell you even if the car was running lol. Mileage is km. Pretty good. If the engine has done that sort of mileage, then i would expect to see some taper and ovality on the bores - go for a re-bore and start your build.
Depending on your budget, have the crank,front pulley,clutch and flywheel dynamically balanced especially if running high rpm's. If your having the head ported and polished, have a 3 angle valve job done on the seats to maximise the quicker 'snap' cam will open the valves quicker of the aftermarket cam s.
A new Oil pump will ensure that your bottom end will stay strong for a very long time. If you plan on running an adjustable FPR, is your original fuel pump capable of supplying a higher fuel pressure - you dont want the fuel pump 'leaning out'.
Im not looking to race the car, I have begun ordering my parts slowly, as for the Fuel pump, Im currently using the Denso 1. B Nothing special. LWFW will make the engine rev much easier, putting less strain on it, thus allowing more power to reach the wheels across a larger range of the power band. Yeah the flywheel wud make ur engine rev up quicker but i think he is refering to the loss in Torgue, which is correct. No need to take it as if I'm trying to say it isn't true. I'm here to learn aswell as to offer advise to people if I can.
I know that you lose torque, but you said power. Easy guys easy, we all learning and giving ideas, if i thought I knew everything i wudnt have joined this forum Thing I wanna know is wats the difference between the deg cam with the 8. Can anyone shed some light on this as to where the power comes in?
Also does anyone know whats the measurements on the standard "blacktop" cam?? Cheers, I have no problem with anyone, just the getting ubiky because I questioned him. I think that most engines like the 4A-GE have duration cams as standard, and you can get inlet cams of up to until you need to re-map the ECU.
The really high durations of are for rebuilt turbo-charged engines with strengthened everything!Login — Register Advanced Search. Threaded Mode Linear Mode. Post: 1. So I'm just wondering. How much can a 16V 4AGE be tuned to give out. As mine is a JDM 16V its supposed to give out around hp stock. So what's the max power this engine can give when mod'ed? Post: 2. Depends on what way you would be going and what cash you're willing to spend on it.
But then you're talking about a heavily modified 4AGE with a large turbo and low compression pistons Keeping it NA you should be able to get till HP without too much trouble and money and anything above HP will cost you a small fortune. Post: 3. Easy, how much money you got? Post: 4. Need to figure out how much of money is needed to mod it to maybe hp from the stock engine.
I read the entire article Banpei posted earlier and its quite unbelievable that a stock 16V can be mod'd to have more HP than a blacktop. But still I'm trying to figure out how much and how.
I'm trying to run away from engine issues I'm having with my 16V hence the reason for me to search for a BT as its a newer model and easier to find parts for it than the 16v. Post: 5. Post: 6. So according to the Banpei's article putting new Cams will make a huge difference in making the power increase from around to even So what's the best of cam's around for a good price?
Post: 7. Both 20V and 16v head have pretty much the same max hp level. Older 16v have weaker low end, but if you switch to 4AGZE internals 16v can be as much as powerful. But, if you plan more, 16v or 20v Maybe 16v is even better, much more people using it, more expirience, more parts. Post: 8. It seems quite illogical not doubting what you guys are saying but just arguing with myself that a engine with a base HP of around can be tuned to hp at the same price as a older less technologically advanced engine such as the 16v.
Post: 9. Post: Also, VVTi is great but it makes better low and mid range response and not the high end power. Send this Thread to a Friend Subscribe to this thread.A generation of the Toyota A engines was produced together with the famous and well-know Toyota S models.
One of the most outstanding and popular engines of that brand is a 4A motor. It was a 4-cylinder engine, which appeared long ago, in For the first time, it was a weak 4A-C with a carburetor. Its cylinder head consisted of 8 valves with one SOHC camshaft. The motor was modified within a course of time; it became more powerful, more advanced. Toyota 4A engine firing order is Apart from that legendary engine, other models, such as the 5A and 7A engines were successfully manufactured.
The Toyota 4A production stopped in It was replaced with the 3ZZ-FE namely at that time. That model was originally designed for the market of North America. Its compression ratio was 9.
The compression ratio was 9. A similar type of the 5A engine was produced later, but it had a diminished displacement 1. A few generations of that motor were manufactured. Its power is HP. The power of such an engine equals HP. The engine is similar to the 4AFE Gen2 with small improvements of the inlet system.
The compression ratio is 9. It was designed by Yamaha and equipped with a multi point injection MPI. It possesses a completely renewed cylinder head of a new modification. Apart from that, more aggressive camshafts and a T-VIS variable-length intake manifold go with that model.
New connecting rods and pistons go with the model. They perfectly fit the The intake manifold has been changed. The main difference is a usage of another twincam valve cylinder head 3 inlet and 2 outlet valves.
More aggressive camshafts, variable valve timing on the intake camshaft, individual throttle bodies are used. The compression ratio is high: not more less than After all that upgrading, the 4AGE capacity is horsepower at 7, rpm. That engine has enlarged throttle body. The inlet and outlet ports are improved. The flywheel and pistons are facilitated, the engine compression ratio is about More aggressive cams have been installed.
A supercharger is applied. The SC12 supercharger is used. The maximal boost pressure is 9 psi 0. Forged pistons are applied to that engine compression ratio — 8.In these pages, I talk about the various mods needed to take the Toyota 4AGE cc engine from as low as hp all the way up to hp in 10hp increments, and beyond with turbos. A standard 4AGE twin cam on a full power run on a dynamometer. W r i ting a page like this is rather difficult, to say the least! The number of variations with all of the 4AGE's around the world, the number of different installations in people's own cars, etc, make the job of giving accurate estimations to how much power you're going to get if you do this and that a best guess effort.
It's also important to realise that you must read from 'top to bottom', as I'll only be detailing the mods for each power increment, and not repeat those mods in later higher increments. Equally important is to read the 'other stuff' paragraph, as it contains vital information to increasing the power of the 4AGE. And other engines I have also included a photos section that has many of the topics that I talk about on this page, so for example where I talk about a cheap Weber inlet manifold I have a picture of it in the photos section.
And on page two - Other stuff that's important. And on page three - Lots of supporting pictures. They are commonly found in Japan, Australia, and New Zealand. For more information on all these engines, take a look at my Standard 4AGE page. Some points to note - - The 'small port' and 'big port' computers are occasionally interchangeable, but will rarely increase or decrease the power output of the engine. There are more effective ways of spending your money.
Simple mods, such as a free flowing exhaust and cold air inlet pod will give you a few more HP. Synthetic engine oil will also give you a few more HP over conventional mineral oils. By doing all of these things you'll gain a good 10hp or so over a standard engine, but anything more than that and you'll need to start digging around under the cam covers If timed properly, they'll idle and run just like a pair of standard cams.
Aftermarket 'chips' for the factory computer will also help the power output, but they vary greatly in quality and results - Do your homework before buying! This size cam is the upper limit of the cam duration that you can use with the factory computer, as they need a decent inlet manifold vacuum to sense to work properly.
The AFM versions may be a little better off, but I've had no information on this. You won't get hp with the factory computer, however, and so you'll need to spend a few dollars on an aftermarket system. Please read my Engine pages for more information on porting, etc. Note that a lot of engine shops leave the ports with a near-mirror finish and the port dividers almost razor sharp - This is the wrong thing to do!
You can pretty much forget about passing any emissions laws you may have in your country It's also getting near the end of what the standard inlet manifold can do, so this is around the point where things start getting expensive.
All the head work that you've done in the previous paragraph will cover you for this amount of power, so, to improve on hp - hp you'll need to raise the compression of the engine. The stock pistons are good for hp no worries, but much past that I'd recommend using good aftermarket units, such as Wiseco's. You'll be needing a compression ratio of at least The stock con-rod bolts are good for up to about hp, but past that you should replace them with the best you can get, such as ARP or small block Chevy.
I mean, if you're going to replace them you may as well do a good job You'll also need to be able to rev the engine to 8,rpm, and maybe even 8,rpm. The inlet manifold is a bit of a problem, but if you're sneaky then you can make a twin Weber style manifold with throttle bodies quite cheaply.
I cut the alloy to make the flanges of the Weber base and the cylinder head base. I then cut the 52mm tube to the right length four times and partly crushed one end so it matched the shape of the inlet ports. I then spent a few days cleaning it all up so the parts fitted each other neatly, then got them MIG welded up.This is a guide for making a educated comparison between the two 20V engines with a description of the difference explained. Some smaller differences are not covered.
The Blacktop has a larger volume Airbox, this is from a thicker section below the throttle bodies so it is not easily identifiable from a visual inspect unless the engine is out. There have been reports of an increase in torque from swapping airboxes on the Silvertop to the Blacktop unit, however this difference may of come from the different trumpets if the blacktop trumpets where adapted. To reduce noise the blacktop belt also featured a slightly different shape teeth profile.
The Silvertop is identical to all previous A series engines made before it in that it uses a simple and reliable sprung idler wheel to keep tension on the belt. However the blacktop was made with a hydraulic tensioner that has a reputation for unreliability.
The tensioning system can be swapped but it also requires the swap of the oil pump also. Both engines have virtually identical exhaust cams. However the blacktop has 0. The cams can be swapped between the engines if the VVT cam gear is also swapped, but there would be no point as both cams are virtually identical so there would be no real gain.
Blacktops cams also have an interesting feature in that the base circle low side of all the cam lobes have been machined such that they have only a small ridge for a friction surface. This is a clever way of reducing friction against the buckets. The Silvertop has a static compression ratio of The Silvertop con-rods are very solidly built and with bolts but no big end bearings weigh in at either g or g each.
The Blacktop however was fitted with very thin, lighter and weaker rods at g each. Both are readily interchangeable. Despite reports the differences in weight or otherwise between the two cranks on these engines is very negligible and for the greater part be considered identical and therefore both are interchangeable.4age 20v ep91 starlet 2nd power run
They are not interchangeable without modifications to the wiring loom. The Silvertop features multiple cast ribs in the head above the exhaust ports. On the blacktop this was significantly reduced to a more simple design. The Silvertop engine featured a slot leading into each cam bucket recess for oiling of the bucket.We offer an included day warranty for this item, from the date of possession.
This warranty will cover that no problems will occur if the item is installed in the vehicle properly by a certified mechanic. In the event that a part of the engine block or head is found to be defective, this part will be replaced with a certified mechanics diagnosis.
All internal engine parts including: pistons, piston rings, piston pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and rod bearings, camshaft and camshaft bearings, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, oil pump, push rods, rocker arms and shafts, engine block, cylinder walls, head gasket, and cylinder head are included under warranty and guaranteed to be free of cracks or distortion.
All external parts attached to the engine, and wear and tear maintenance parts is not covered under warranty since we do not charge a core charge so you can use the components from your old engine. This includes parts like: intake and exhaust manifolds, carburetors, distributor, starter, emission control devices, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, water pump, thermostat, belts, hoses, oil pan, valve cover, sensors, electronic sensors, spark plugs, distributor, wires, Computers, injectors, timing chain, timing chain guides, timing chain tensioner, motor mounts, driveshaft, etc.
Must be Installed and Maintained, by a Certified Mechanic. Ignition and Timing must be set to Recommended Manufacturer Specification. Coolant system must be flushed and radiator must be clean of any oil residue.
Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, oil filter, air filter, and spark plugs must be replaced.
Oil Pan and Front Case needs to be free of oil leaks. Removal or separation of major internal components voids the warranty. Eg: Cylinder Head and internal components, Connecting rods and components, crankshaft and components, piston and components.
Any labor charges for installation or removal of engine or part sold. Any damage caused by abuse, neglect, accident or natural perils. Loss caused by improper engine installation. Loss caused by overheating. The warranty does not cover oil leaks, blown head gasket or any other engine damage due to overheating caused by poor water circulation, clogged radiator, stuck thermostat or a faulty water pump, etc.
Decrease in performance of any covered part due to normal wear and tear unless actual breakdown occurshaving regard to inherent manufacturing faults in some engine models. Loss caused by any modification or use of the engine for which it is not originally designed.
The engine if it is used for competitive driving, drifting, racing, or excessive. Loss caused by the failure of a part or parts of the engine that are not covered by this limited warranty.
Tune-ups and adjustments, filters, hoses, belts, lubricants, coolants, emission control devices, spark plugs, tune-up parts, etc.
Deterioration or pre-ignition damage. Loss caused by defective timing belt. A brand new timing belt must be installed. Loss caused by modification or forced induction NOS, Turbos, Supercharged for which the engine was not designed. The customer is responsible for all the freight charges on the return of a defective item s and no replacement part will be sent until our staff have inspected and verified the returned defective item in question.
The customer is responsible for all the shipping charges for the returned product. Any other additional parts required to complete your swap will have to be purchased separately. Some products may require additional components to be fully functional. Any Warranty claim must be accompanied with an installation invoice from a Certified Mechanic, Receipts for every maintenance part or service required to be replaced.
Please review all HD Photos carefully to see what the general condition of the item. In some cases, stock photos are used. The item you receive will be the same item but there may be minor differences in normal wear.
Should you have any questions, please feel free to email or call us prior to placing your order.A generation of the Toyota A engines was produced together with the famous and well-know Toyota S models. One of the most outstanding and popular engines of that brand is a 4A motor. It was a 4-cylinder engine, which appeared long ago, in For the first time, it was a weak 4A-C with a carburetor.
4AGE 20V Blacktop Engine with 5 Speed Manual Transmission Toyota Corolla Trueno Levin AE111
Its cylinder head consisted of 8 valves with one SOHC camshaft. The motor was modified within a course of time; it became more powerful, more advanced. Toyota 4A engine firing order is Apart from that legendary engine, other models, such as the 5A and 7A engines were successfully manufactured. The Toyota 4A production stopped in It was replaced with the 3ZZ-FE namely at that time.
That model was originally designed for the market of North America. Its compression ratio was 9. The compression ratio was 9. A similar type of the 5A engine was produced later, but it had a diminished displacement 1. A few generations of that motor were manufactured. Its power is HP. The power of such an engine equals HP. The engine is similar to the 4AFE Gen2 with small improvements of the inlet system. The compression ratio is 9. It was designed by Yamaha and equipped with a multi point injection MPI.
It possesses a completely renewed cylinder head of a new modification. Apart from that, more aggressive camshafts and a T-VIS variable-length intake manifold go with that model. New connecting rods and pistons go with the model.
They perfectly fit the The intake manifold has been changed. The main difference is a usage of another twincam valve cylinder head 3 inlet and 2 outlet valves. More aggressive camshafts, variable valve timing on the intake camshaft, individual throttle bodies are used.
The compression ratio is high: not more less than After all that upgrading, the 4AGE capacity is horsepower at 7, rpm. That engine has enlarged throttle body. The inlet and outlet ports are improved. The flywheel and pistons are facilitated, the engine compression ratio is about More aggressive cams have been installed.
A supercharger is applied. The SC12 supercharger is used. The maximal boost pressure is 9 psi 0. Forged pistons are applied to that engine compression ratio — 8. It also possesses a T-VIS variable-length intake manifold.